Pagosa Springs: Chimney Rock & Piedra Falls

Pagosa Springs, Colorado

 

October 2023

I never intended to blog this adventure, but, sometimes, there are just some adventures you want to capture and share.

In Colorado, the aspen trees typically peak their golden foliage mid to late September. However, nature isn’t necessarily on our time clock. It was mid-October and we hit the peak time in Southern Colorado. The drive from Alamosa, Colorado (where we visited Great Sand Dunes National Park) to Pagosa Springs along US Hwy 160 was on fire with the golden Aspens.

I couldn’t put my camera down.

Pagosa Springs is located at the junction of U.S. Highways 160 and 84. As the name implies it is known for its hot springs.

Overlook Hot Springs Spa, Pagosa Springs

This hot spring is in a Victorian style home downtown. If you read their website, it sounds cool. Only it isn’t.

There are soaking tubs on different levels and a couple on the rooftop. I felt they need to clean up the place. I’ve now checked off going to a hot spring and soaking and I’m pretty sure I won’t do it again. If you’ve had a better experience, please share. Maybe I’ll give it another try somewhere else.

Now let’s move on to some places that lives up to the hype and I highly recommend.

1. Chimney Rock National Monument in San Juan National Forest

 

Chimney Rock National Monument is 4,726-acre within the San Juan National Forest between Durango and Pagosa Springs, Colorado. We discovered this hidden gem which is off the beaten path by goggling what to do around Pagosa Springs. There were no crowds when we went.

We began by stopping in at the visitor center.  I love visitor centers. There’s always lots to learn about the area you’re going to explore.

You can watch a short (highly recommend) movie about the history of the Ancestral Puebloans of the Chaco Canyon.

Chimney Rock is about 7,000 feet above sea level and represents one of the largest Pueblo II (900-1150 AD) communities in southwest Colorado. There will be excavated homes and ceremonial buildings you can view along the trail.

Fun Fact: Chimney Rock is a sacred place to Native American tribes. The two large rocks at the top of the mountain were used as a celestial observatory and a natural calendar that marked the equinox for the Puebloans who lived here over 1000 years ago.

Before you start the hike to the top of the mountain, there’s an interpreter who’ll explain more about the area and give you a laminated page so you can do a self-guided tour.

The short hike to the top is just a half mile but the path is steep and rocky. My friend wished she had her walking sticks.

I loved knowing that over a thousand years ago, the Pueblo people had walked along the same path I was on. Once at the top you are rewarded with a beautiful view of Colorado and New Mexico.

Fun Fact: Indigenous people usually harvested Ponderosa pine trees for their soft phloem. These trees became known as peeled trees. You can recognize these trees by their oval to rectangular-shaped scars. The phloem is a thin layer just under the bark where sugars produced by photosynthesis are found. It’s believed that harvested pine phloem was used for food and medicine.

Tips:

• There is an activity pass fee of $20. If you have the National Park Pass, it’ll cover the entry fee.
• The entry gate opens at 9 AM and closes at 4:30 PM.
• Allow yourself about an hour for the self-guided tour. You’ll want to take your time to enjoy the area.
• Only service dogs allowed.
• Wear sturdy shoes, hat, and sunscreen. There is no shade.
• We were lucky on this adventure because the open season runs from May 15-October 15^th. A couple more days and we wouldn’t have gotten in.

I hope I hooked you on this adventure because it’s well worth visiting.

2. Piedra Falls Trail

 

Piedra Trail

Another off the beaten path adventure. Note the directions below. It’s not easy to find.

The ½ mile hike from the trailhead to the waterfall is easy.  You’ll walk along the river that winds back to the falls. The scenery especially with the fall colors was gorgeous.

One of my pictures you will see the sun burst through the trees. Life is about being in the right place (or wrong place) at the right time (or wrong time). On this hike (October 14^th) we were lucky enough to see the solar eclipse. The duration was less than 3 minutes. We shielded our eyes with our phones and witnessed the “ring of fire” solar eclipse. Yep, this was a great day being in the right place at the right time.

Tips:

• No facilities. But then again there aren’t many people there and plenty of woods.
• Take water, and snacks.
• Roads to get there are dirt and gravel.
• There are no signs to direct you so don’t think you’re lost unless you’re really lost. We eventually found it and it was worth the effort.
• There is no service once you get in the mountain area so have your route set up before you start out.

Directions:  Drive North on Piedra Road (CR 600/FS 631) 17.8-miles to the junction at Sportsman’s Campground. Leave the Piedra Rd and continue on Middle Fork Rd (FS 636) for 2 miles. Take the first road to the right, East Toner Rd (FS 637), and drive that for 7.5-miles to the parking lot at the end of the road.