Ischia (pronounced ee-skee-a)
October 2022
How we got to Ischia:
Our Odyssey tour ended in Sorrento. Took a morning ferry from Sorrento to Ischia. Takes about one hour with one stop at Procida.
Ischia: 2 nights
Miramare E Castello http://miramarecastello.alysandyischia.com/en
Away from the harbor, Miramare E Castello is located on the sea with a private beach, indoor and outdoor swimming pool, wonderful breakfast included and a seaside restaurant. When we arrived, we were upgraded to a room overlooking the gorgeous sea and the Castello Aragonese. I thought for what we got, the price was reasonable.
Tips:
- Even though it’s not far from the harbor, take a taxi to the hotel. Dragging luggage along cobblestone streets isn’t easy. And there are parts that are uphill (not steep but enough of an incline over a stony walk to make you wish you weren’t walking and dragging your luggage).
- Spend the money! Get a seaside room. The view can’t be beat.
Ischia
We spent our last two days in Italy on this volcanic island in the Tyrrhenian Sea. We couldn’t have picked a better place to end our 24-day journey in Italy.
Ischia is a hidden gem. Not many Americans have heard of the island so there’s not a lot of English-speaking Italians which makes it even more authentic.
With fewer crowds, unspoiled beaches clear blue green water, Ischia is one of the most picturesque islands in the Bay of Naples. Once you’re away from the busier Ischia Porto you can soak it all in.
Ischia is known not only for its beauty but it’s famous for thermal spas and natural springs. Casamicciola Terme, on the northern coast, has the largest concentration of thermal springs.
Everywhere we went on the island, all we heard was American music and nobody seemed to speak English. Listen carefully to the video:
Adventures:
- Castello Aragonese https://www.castelloaragoneseischia.com/en
My husband and I did a self-guided tour of this medieval castle built on a volcanic islet that connects the island of Ischia by a stone foot bridge/causeway. It was a short walk from our hotel. While crossing the foot bridge you know you’re going to have a steep climb once inside the castle.
Castello Aragonese has a fascinating history. The first fortress was built in 474 B.C. by the Greek-Syracusan Hiero. At one time the Ischians found shelter and protection in the castle from invading pirates. The Castle was at one time a prison for lifers and political prisoners.
Climb to the Terrace of the Immaculate Conception. Up here you have jaw dropping views of the village of Ischia Ponte and Fisherman’s beach.
There is a small café at the top where you can get a glass of wine and rest while enjoying the views.
The Nuns’ Cemetery located beneath the Church has a series of areas housing walled draining seats on which the dead were placed. The corpses slowly decomposed and later the skeletons are heaped up and placed in the Ossuary. Just a gross fact for you.
Tips:
- Tickets price € 12,00/pp. Be sure you have cash.
- Even though you are given an information leaflet when you purchase your ticket, it is confusing on where to start. The tunnel to the left is the way you enter and depart. Very steep.
- Wear comfortable shoes. There is a lift but it’s not available to everyone.
- Count on an hour and a half to see all 24 points of interest.
- Most of the walk is open-air so wear a hat.
- There are 2 cafes with scenic views
We decided to tour the rest of the island of Ischia by public bus transportation.
We walked down to the port and purchased our tickets at the Porto bus station for the day.
Tips:
- Tickets price € 4,50/pp for all day.
- Once you get on the bus stamp your ticket using the machine on the bus.
- The main bus lines are the CS and the CD that circle the island clockwise and counterclockwise. You can do either, just make sure you stay on the bus going in the same direction.
- It is chaotic at the bus station and was difficult to figure out which bus to get on.
- There is no announcement of stops so you must figure it out on your own. My husband used Google Maps. Be sure to get a bus stop map where you buy your ticket.
- If I had to do it again, I would have gotten a tour guide to take us around the island. Finding seats can be difficult and the ride is rough. Even though they say buses come every 30 minutes we found ourselves waiting 45 minutes at one stop.
- Sant’Angelo
A famous and stunning village on the southern coast of Ischia. It is a suburb of Serrara Fontana. The town is a grouping of villages. Lots of restaurants and shops built into the mountain. Along the walk you can enjoy the views of the sea without worry of traffic. It is completely pedestrian.
Tips:
- If you take the bus, do not get off till the buses go down to the edge of the pedestrian walkway and turns around. We got off at a stop before the turn around and had a long walk down.
- Don’t pass up the gelato. The pistachio is delicious.
Meals:
- Dolce E La Vita Bar E Ristorante
A small café with excellent views. There is a terrace overlooking the sea. The food was good.
- Chiesa Del Soccorso
A stark white church sitting high on its promontory at Forio surrounded by the sea below and mountains behind. This famous church has been featured on postage stamps. While we were there, a photographer was patiently waiting to get the perfect shot. The church has unusual architecture style described as Moorish/Byzantine.
Tips:
- The local specialty is not seafood but conilio all’Ischitana, a rabbit stew cooked in a terracotta pot with tomato and spices. Sorry, I didn’t try this. I’ll let you tell me how delicious it is.
- I’d spend at least one more day in Ischia. I know I keep saying it, but if you’re staying on the water rent a boat if you are experienced or, if not, then hire a captain. On a boat go to Spiaggia San Pancrazio and see the Grotta Verde. Then stop for lunch at Ristorante La Pace. This is the only way to get to this restaurant. Just sounds like a cool adventure.
- Go visit the thermal spas. We were too short on time to have this adventure.