Sicily

Sicily (Odyssey Unlimited Tour)

September 2022

How we got to Sicily:

We took the train from Varenna (Lake Como) to Milano Centrale train station. We caught a taxi to Milan Linate Airport which took less than 10 minutes. There can be a long line to get a taxi at the train station, so allow yourself enough time to get to the airport and catch your flight.

We flew ITA Airways from Milan to Catania. For two people it was only $160. We stayed in Catania one night. It’s a grimy city from what we saw. Next morning, we met our Odyssey tour group and boarded a bus to Taormina.

We enjoyed our Odyssey Tour called Southern Italy & Sicily with Apulia & Amalfi coast. It officially started September 20^th and ended October 3^rd. We wisely put extra days on the front end of the tour and the back end to let us explore on our own. We also booked our own flights, so we had more control on layovers.

I will highlight the places we enjoyed and some recommendations on what to skip. On the tour you can opt to not join the group on excursions that don’t interest you. I wish we’d done that a few times. There are sights I mention that we explored on our own besides the tour sights.

Taormina: 4 nights

Eurostars Monte Tauro  https://www.eurostarshotels.co.uk

A four-star hotel and for good reason. The hotel is built into the slope of a bluff. All rooms have balconies with views of the Ionian Sea and the Gulf of Naxos. There’s a glass elevator attached to the outside of the hotel which makes for a wonderful ride with views of the sea. A breakfast feast is included.

Great location. Five minutes and you are in the heart of town.

Downside is there is a steep walk down to the hotel and you know, what goes down must come up.

Taormina is a hilltop town on the east coast of Sicily. You can see Mount Etna from the city. The main street has two city gates, Porta Catania (west end of town) and Porta Messina (east end of town). The town is clean and quaint.

Tips:

• During the day the town can be crowded with cruise ship passengers. In the evening the crowds thin out. Enjoy early morning strolls or later in the day explore the town.

Adventures:

1. Take a city tour with a local guide. I loved the balconies over the street filled with flower baskets, and the narrow alleys leading to the sea. The Piazza Duomo is near the western gate. Built in the 13^th It has a mix of architectural styles. The Baroque marble doorway is unique.

There are a lot of churches and ruins throughout the city. The San Domenico Palace Hotel use to be a convent and was taken over as the headquarters for the German command of Sicily in WWII.

Via del Ghetto was once the Jewish quarter when it had a synagogue and a mosque. Six centuries ago, Christians, Muslims and Jews lived side by side without prejudice. (Hard to imagine these days) But during the 15^th century the Spanish overlords persecuted all non-Christians. Many Muslims fled to North Africa and the Jewish population either left Sicily or converted to Christianity if too poor to leave.

2. Greek-Roman Theater

Built by Greeks in third century BC. Later it was remodeled by the Romans. The ruins are unique in that the theater is built on the edge of a cliff with spectacular views of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea. The Greek had plays and the Romans had gladiator games. It’s awesome that the theater is still used today. In the summer, concerts are held here.

Be sure and go up to the top level of seats and stroll along the walkway. You will be able to get beautiful pictures of the Ionian Sea.

3. Villa Comunale di Taormina (Public Gardens)

At first you think there’s not much to the gardens but keep going, there’s lots to see. The landscaped gardens have a mix of exotic plants. There is a walkway with beautiful views of the sea and city below. The public gardens were once the private gardens of Florence Trevelyan, a 19^th century English noblewoman who left England after having an affair with Edward VII. She married the mayor of Taormina and never returned to England. There are faux-ancient buildings called follies. This was a British custom to have areas with garden ornaments. There is no cost to visit.

Food Disclaimer: My pictures of food usually show part of the meal eaten. Sorry, but I WAS hungry, and my brain was slow to tell me to stop and capture the dish. Therefore many great dishes were never captured except for my memory of them.

Meals:

• Gourmet 32 http://www.gourmet32.it

Located in a cute alleyway. We ate outside. Good food.

 

• Rele Taormina

We sat outside and had a stunning view of the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna. We saw Etna erupt at sunset and it was spectacular to see. Food and service are excellent. Be sure and try the pistachio ice cream. I’m drooling just thinking about it. We ate here 2 nights.

Tip:

• Always make dinner reservations.

4. Valley of the Temples at Agrigento.

Our Odyssey tour took us from Taormina on a day long excursion by bus to visit Doric temple ruins and the well-preserved Temple of Concordia, built in 430 BCE and later converted to a Christian church 2 centuries later. Our local guide told us that the Christians decided not to destroy the pagan temples but renovated them and sprinkled holy water inside the temple to turn them into Christian churches. There is an archaeological museum you can visit nearby. This was a long bus ride to do in one day.

5. Mount Etna

Our Odyssey tour took us from Taormina to Mount Etna by bus for the morning. It is one of the tallest active volcanoes in Europe. It is a UNESCO site. My husband and I climbed up and were awed by the deep craters. Standing atop a volcano is remarkable. It’s chilly so take a jacket and have sturdy shoes.

Tidbit: You will see the prickly pear cacti everywhere. It is not native. This plant was imported to Sicily by the Spaniards in the 15^th century.

Meals:

• Agriturismo San Leonardello https://www.sanleonardello.it/en

We had lunch after descending Mount Etna at a private farm surrounded by orange and lemon groves. You are immediately greeted by Lilly, the owner’s dog. Lilly will run up to you, flip over and wait for her belly rub.

The family-owned farm prepared us a delicious lunch with tastings of Sicilian wines. They offer accommodations and this would have been a fun place to stay with views of Mount Etna. A wonderful relaxing place to have lunch.

6. Chiesa Madonna della Rocca

This sight was not on our tour itinerary, but my husband and I thought we should hike up and explore the chapel. Madonna della Rocca is a historic chapel built in the 12^th century into a rock that sits above the town of Taormina. Just look up from town and you will see the cross.

We used Google Maps to locate the path. Take Via Circonvallazione to Salita Castello. The key word here is Salita which translates to ‘climb’. No matter what Google Maps says it was about a 30-minute huff and puff climb. It’s very doable, just make plenty of stops, drink water and take beautiful pictures.

Along the climb are sculptures depicting the crucifixion in stages. Without the crowds at the top, you can absorb the uniqueness of this small chapel that is built into the mountain. There was a wedding party when we got up there and they were outside taking pictures. What a cool place to say, “I do”.

The views at the top were well worth all the effort to get there.

Tips:

• If it is hot, take plenty of water, wear sunscreen and a hat.
• I think doing a tour of Sicily only (the Odyssey tour was Sicily and southern Italy) would have been a better option than staying in Taormina and using a bus to visit sites outside the city. We only got a taste of Sicily and would have liked to have been more immersed in this fascinating place.