Portugal
May 20th to June 8, 2025
This year we joined the more than 10 million visitors who vacation in Portugal each year. You can now understand the protests in Europe about over tourism. It’s a Catch 22. The money from tourism helps the economy, but it drives up living costs for locals.
My husband, Chuck, and I began our vacation in Portugal with 4 days on our own in Carvoeiro at a wonderful bed and breakfast.
And that’s where we’ll start this journey. I’ll do my best not to overload you with history about this remarkable country but no promises.
First things first.
Getting to Portugal from Denver, is expensive and it’s a long flight fromColorado. Just thinking about it makes me cringe.
Long flights are rough and getting rougher with every aging year. We flew Delta and upgraded to Premium Select.
This was as close to first class as we’ve ever experienced flying. Tablecloth on our tray, oversized seats that had an adjustable footrest, padded headphones, tasty food served on real plates and free wine.
YES! This was the way to go. Upgrading made the 7-hour overnight flight from JFK to Lisbon a lot more comfortable.
Once we collected our luggage, got our rental car and circled the roundabout a couple of times trying to figure out how to exit the airport, we rolled down the expressway for approximately 2 ½ hours to The Algarve.
The Algarve, Portugal
The Algarve is the southernmost region of Portugal.
We were staying at a wonderful bed and breakfast in the town, Carvoeiro.
Carvoeiro is a small coastal village with rugged limestone sea cliffs, beautiful beaches and whitewashed Mediterranean houses with terracotta roofs. I don’t think I saw more than a handful of homes that weren’t whitewashed. I’m sure this is due to the intense sun, but it also reflects the Moorish influence that was once in this region.
Why Carvoeiro?
- Location: It is centrally located in Algarve with towns east or west about an hour drive or less.
- Activities: Cliff hikes, Benagil Cave, kayaking, golf (unfortunately we didn’t have time), beaches, Carvoeiro Boardwalk
- Qunita do Ourives: https://quinta-do-ourives.com/en/ This boutique B&B is probably one of my favorites we’ve ever stayed in. Not only was our room amazing with a terrace to relax on, but the grounds feature a large pool and several outside lounging areas. There’s an honesty bar by the pool for you to grab some wine, soft drinks, beer, and relax while watching the sunset.
Our host, Elke was charming, insuring we had everything we needed. Every morning a delicious breakfast is included in your stay.
Before you arrive, Elke and her husband Maarten send you information on local restaurants, and things to do. We found this very helpful.
A bonus for us at our B&B was meeting two other guests, Elise and Denis. They’re Canadians who worked for Celine Dion. Denis does the sound production and Elise is a backup singer. We hope to stay in touch. This is one reason we love B&Bs—We get to meet other people and connect.
Soon as we arrived at our B&B, we realized our mistake. We weren’t staying long enough. We only stayed 4 days.
So, what did we do that we enjoyed?
- Seven Hanging Valleys Trail
The trail is a 12km (8 miles) one-way hike. The trail stretches from Praida da Marinha to Praia do Vale de Centeanes and then back the way you came if you dare. The B&B recommended parking at Praia do Vale de Centeanes and taking an Uber to Praida da Marinha so you’d have your car when you finished your hike.
It is considered one of the most beautiful walks on the Algarve Coast and I will say the part we hiked lived up to the hype.
We weren’t up to hiking 8 miles. We were told the eastern part of the trail was the most beautiful and we should start at Benagil Beach. We found parking just past our fav restaurant, O Algar. From the parking lot we were able to walk to the cliffs above Benagil Beach. We hiked along the cliffs to Praida da Marinha, and then back. Approximately 4 plus miles. I felt like it was a moderate hike.
The trek offers incredible views from the towering limestone cliffs down to the Atlantic Ocean. You will see several beaches and caves along the trail.
We were hot and tired after our hike and went back to our B&B, the Qunita do Ourives and laid by the pool and relaxed.
TIPS:
- There is a parking lot up from the restaurant O Algar. Parking is an issue in Carvoeiro.
- Use the AllTrails app https://www.alltrails.com/trail/portugal/faro/pr1-lga-sete-vales-suspensos to follow where you are on the trail.
- If you want to hike the entire trail just one way, then get an uber or use the Bolt app to pick you up and take you back to your car.
- It’s HOT even in May. Go early.
- Take plenty of water, hat, sunscreen and wear good walking shoes. There is no shade on this hike.
- Take snacks. There are few places to find food along the trail.
- Carvoeiro Boardwalk
This is a wooden boardwalk that provides you with spectacular views over the cliffs down to the turquoise sea. We stopped and had lunch on the terrace of the Boneca Bar Restaurant. The food is subpar, and the service is slow. Don’t go for the food. Go for the view and unique location of the bar…and the drinks!
This is a popular spot due to the location. I advise you go for a drink early, relax and walk down to the caves and enjoy the view.
- Secret Algarve Kayaking Tour https://www.secretalgarve.pt/en
We booked (in advance) the 9AM 2-hour Kayak Tour of Benagil Cave and Marinha Beach. Luckily in our group there was only one other couple, and our guide.
Our guide took us into a lot more sea caves and water tunnels than I had anticipated. He had a knack for taking us where it wasn’t so crowded. A bonus was kayaking to the beautiful Praia do Buraco, or Secret Beach, where thankfully we got out and stretched our achy legs.
Secret Beach is famous for the dramatic cliffs and unique rock formations. The water was so clear I could see the sea bottom. On the beach, our guide took us in a cave and showed us how locals climb down rocks to access the beach. Didn’t look easy.
Before kayaking into some of the caves, we had to lie back to clear the overhead opening, and a couple of the caves were very dark inside. I’m not sure why we went in them since you couldn’t see.
Our guide saved the most iconic sea cave for last, The Benagil Cave or The Algar de Benagil.
From outside Benagil Cave, there are two large (huge might be a better way to visualize this) arches formed by nature. Years of wind and water eroding this cliff had created this beautiful giant cave.
Our guide had us stop at the entrance since there is a courtesy time limit of 7 minutes on how long visitors are allowed to stay inside the cave due to its popularity.
Inside Benagil Cave have your camera ready. Turquoise water, a small beach and a large skylight above is the reason this is a place you’ll remember.
You’ll be awed as you crane your neck to take in the wonders of nature. As your eye travels up toward the Algar (opening in the ceiling) you’ll see the beautiful spiraling colors of orange, yellow and white walls. Even though I saw online pictures of people walking on the beach inside the cave, you are no longer allowed to disembark inside the cave.
The Benagil Cave has been considered one of the 10 “Wonders of the World”.
If you can visit this area, I highly recommend you visit the Bengali cave. Currently (2025), the only way to enter the Benagil Cave is on a boat tour or kayak tour. There are multiple boat tours. We even saw people on Stand-Up Paddle boards (if you have experience and balance).
You can also walk to the Benagil Cave. Park next to the Benagil beach and walk east along the Seven Hanging Valley Trail which follows the coast. You can only see the cave from above and since it’s fenced off for your protection it is difficult to get a good view.
TIPS:
- Request a back support seat for your kayak. We didn’t and the strain from paddling without support was brutal.
- Do the 9:00 AM tour. The waters (and winds) are calmer and the water levels lower allowing you to explore more sea caves.
- Book your tour at least a week in advance
Those are the activities we enjoyed. We did attend a wine tasting but we were disappointed, so I won’t give details.
Now let’s get to the part that’s very important to Chuck and me. FOOD!
Elke, our B&B host recommended these restaurants, and we loved them. All our breakfasts at the B&B were delicious.
Places to dine:
- O Algar
This family-owned restaurant is located at Praia de Benagil (Benagil Beach). It sits on the side of a hill overlooking the ocean.
All the seafood is fresh, and the family makes your experience memorable. Carlos the father and his two sons, Edgar and Roberto provided personal and excellent service. Mamma is in the kitchen and makes the best desert.
We loved the place so much we came twice. The first time we had fresh seabass and the second time skewers of Monkfish and shrimp. We always ask what mamma made for desert that evening and ordered it. Also, the recommended wine was very good.
I can still hear Edgar saying, “Chuck, good to see you again.” I was so surprised on our second visit he remembered our name.
I cannot recommend this restaurant enough. The restaurant is popular, so I’d advise you make reservations several days out.
- O Casarao
This local restaurant is one we’d never discovered except for the recommendation from our B&B host. It’s located in Lagoa.
We heard the best chicken piri-piri was in The Algarve and this restaurant is known for being one of the best. Chicken piri-piri is grilled chicken in a spicy sauce made from piri-piri peppers. Luckily, I ordered the sauce on the side. It was too hot for me, but Chuck loved it. The appetizer was delicious. I wish I could find olives like the ones they had here at home.
Even without the sauce the chicken was delicious.
I’d recommend you eat here. It’s not large inside so you need to make reservations.
That’s it for The Algarve portion of our vacation. Sadly, we had to bid farewell to our wonderful host, Elke and our new friends, Denis and Elise.
It was time to drive back to Lisbon to start our Rick Steves tour.
Let’s go……….
You’re both looking good! We too enjoyed a Viking Cruise in Portugal with a pre-visit in Madrid and then onto Porto to begin the river cruise. Even tasted some Port wine!